Velvet Drive 5000 Series ("Liberty")

The 5000 series is Velvet Drive's aluminum-case line, built as the 5000A (in-line) and the 5000V (V-drive). You'll see part numbers starting 2001 and 2002, and the Liberty series versions starting 3001 and 3002. Chris calls it the 5000 or Liberty series, "whichever you want to call it."

5000 vs. Liberty

According to Chris, the main difference between the 5000 and the Liberty is the case. They beefed up the casting of the case and changed the pump housing style, but it still uses the same pump.

Ratios, capacity and weight

The nominal ratio on the tag isn't always the actual gear ratio. Velvet Drive's service manuals list both:

Capacity runs about 2.0 quarts on the 5000A/3001 in-line and about 3.0 quarts on the 5000V/3002 V-drive, not counting the cooler. Weight is harder to pin down: Velvet Drive's own paperwork disagrees with itself, anywhere from about 100 lb up to 135 lb depending on which document and which version you're reading. If weight matters for your install, call us with the tag number and we'll tell you what we know about your specific unit.

Rotation

A 5000 or Liberty only runs behind an engine that turns counterclockwise at the flywheel (Velvet Drive calls this a left-hand engine; ZF's paperwork calls the same engine right-hand turning). Same engine, opposite words, so check which brand's paperwork you're reading.

On a cast-iron 71 or 72, forward follows the engine, and flipping the pump only lets the unit run behind the other engine rotation. A 5000 or Liberty has no pump to re-index. Which way the prop turns is set by which way you rig the shift cable for forward.

Pressure

That low neutral reading trips people up. If you're used to a Velvet Drive 5000 and you check pressure on a ZF63, don't be surprised by a high neutral reading. A good ZF63A on our stand reads about 350 psi in every position, neutral included. A low neutral number is normal on a 5000. On a ZF63 it isn't.

5000 series pressure test

Why they're labor-heavy

All the little springs and things inside are why 5000s are so expensive to rebuild. The clutch drum is held onto the shaft with 12 bolts, there are more return springs than Chris cares to count, and you've got snap ring after snap ring to take off.

The filter and pressure regulator sit under the same cover, and on some units that whole control block, pump and regulator together, fails and gets replaced as one assembly. Take the cover off and you'll find the spring for the pressure regulator, with the filter or screen down below. That plate is under a lot of pressure, so be careful: start with the two top bolts and loosen them a couple of turns at a time until the top pops.

Known weak points

The pump is the 5000's weak link. The inner gear can crack, more often on the V-drives, from wear, an impact, or a high-speed shift, and the metal that comes off it gets into the input shaft, which then has to be replaced too. That's why we put a new pump in on every 5000 we rebuild.

Early units use a gear-type pump with pointed teeth. Current production uses a gerotor pump with lobes. The early pump usually comes with the early short-spline input shaft. If you're opening one up, twist the plastic thrust washer on the input shaft. If it snaps, it was cooked, and we replace that washer every time regardless.

5000 series pump failure

The input shaft itself came in a few versions over the years: an early short-spline shaft built for a spring-pack style damper, and current production with a longer spline that mimics ZF's spline pattern, built for a rubber-block (Centa or Vulcan style) damper. Putting the wrong shaft behind a Vulcan-style damper can let the damper bottom out and damage the engine's thrust bearing, so don't mix and match without checking first.

Clean the graphite sludge out of the clutch drum and the grit from between the drum teeth on every rebuild. Leave it in there and the clutches drag instead of seating clean. On the 5000V specifically, the lay-shaft clutch is the one that typically gives out first. If a 5000 starts leaking, overhaul it right away rather than trying to patch it. Its clutches aren't as strong as some other transmissions'.

If you find the old collared springs in there, they need to be replaced with the updated springs.

Maintenance

Change the transmission fluid on a 5000 at least once a year or every 100 hours, depending on how you're operating it. We've pulled one apart where the fluid looked pretty good coming out, and the magnet had picked up all kinds of sludge and slime.

5000A Clutch Packs disassembling

Related problem articles

• Low transmission pressure
• Transmission filter locations
• Transmission overheating
• Identifying your transmission and ratio